Issue #3

Words by Cory Ohlendorf | Lead photography by Jezael Melgoza

Emerging from the grey clouds of the “rainy season”, I was so happy to see the sun. Summer had officially come to Tokyo! But then I remembered the warnings—from the local friends I’ve made and from those well-traveled colleagues—that summers in Japan are difficult. That’s, of course, putting it kindly. If heat is a form of violence, a Tokyo summer afternoon is a swift and surprising slap to the face. WHAP!

Checking the directions on my phone, I thought a 16 minute walk from the station to my destination shouldn’t be too difficult. But it was hot—easily 35°C with a “real feel” of 40+°C … that meant that within minutes of stepping outside, you’re hit with a rainforest’s worth of humidity and heat. Like a huge dog, panting hot, damp breath right in your face. I try to get lost in the green trees and beautiful store windows, but it’s hard to escape the fact that my body is seeping sweat to cool itself. It blends with the sunscreen I have on and I feel the back of my hair starting to drip, onto my neck, down my back and then I catch a glance of a man in a full suit, carrying a briefcase and think to myself, “How the hell does he survive this?”

Some of you have asked me, “When’s the best time to visit Tokyo?” Of course, I’m still a newbie, but I know that the answer is “Never from July through September.” And yet, some still come. In fact, last year nearly 74 million overseas visitors came to Japan during the summer, a return to pre-pandemic numbers (and climbing). If you don’t mind marinating yourself in your own sweat in this sweltering megacity, then by all means come. Of course, then you’ll get to try firsthand all the methods the Japanese people deploy in order to keep their cool when the forecast calls for conditions that are akin to a steam room.

Another tactic is the practice known as uchimizu. During the summer, you’ll often see a wet patch of sidewalk in Tokyo or catch a resident or shopkeeper washing down the street outside their house or store. This is a tradition that dates back to the Edo period and involves filling a bucket or container with water and using your hand or a tool to splash it onto the ground. Sprinkling water has long been a part of Shinto purifying rituals, but this practice really does help cool down a small area as the water evaporates from the ground.

Meanwhile, I’ve noticed guys definitely dressing for the heat. The pants are relaxed—just baggy enough to let the legs breathe, while their shirts are flowy and made from breezy fabrics. Keeping a handkerchief or mini towel in your pocket to wipe away sweat is another analog way to stay dry and comfortable during the summertime. Most men and women have one on them at all times. And while they come in all different styles and fabrications, absorbent terry cloth styles are the most common this time of year.

Hydration Is Key

Staying hydrated is vital for summer health, no matter where you are. But in Japan, there are a myriad of ways to do it. Thankfully, vending machines offer plenty of drinks to replenish your fluids. First, there’s mugicha, a barley tea with a savory taste that contains minerals to prevent dehydration and heat stroke. And, of course, popular sports drinks like Pocari Sweat and Aquarius, which have a subtle citrus flavor, help maintain electrolytes in the body. Served cold, these refreshing beverages will quench your thirst while providing much-needed relief from the mid-day summer heat.

There are also a range of “salt candies”, which are sort of like if Sweet Tarts had a baby with Gatorade. These crunchy tablets contain sodium and potassium to replenish the salt and electrolytes in the body lost through sweating. Plus, they’re pretty tasty and help quench thirst, too.

Cooling Products

What really separates the Japanese from the rest of the world when it comes to summer heat management is the cottage industry of cooling products that has blossomed over the last couple of decades. From convenience stores and drug stores to supermarkets and specialty shops, it seems like everywhere has solutions on sale. One of the most common products is a personal fan—what started out as the classic folded fan known as a sensu has evolved with the times. Now there are handheld electric fans that can also be hung around the neck or propped up on a table to blast you with a continuous breeze. There are collars you keep in the freezer and wear as they thaw. Or sprays for misting your shirts, which help fight mugginess by creating an icy barrier between your skin and the fabric. And foams or body sprays that you apply to the skin for a cooling sensation.

One of the easiest and most relied-on products are cooling body wipes. Available in a multitude of scents and cooling strengths, these wet cotton sheets offer reliable relief—they not only provide a cooling sensation but also clear away sweat and grime. My favorite is made by Ag Deo 24, which offers a chilly blast while also working as a deodorant to fight body odor while hydrating skin. Bioré also makes a supersized version that measures around 18 inches long. You can wrap it around your neck and it will stay feeling cool for about 45 minutes to an hour. You might not think they could do that much, but trust me, they leave you feeling really refreshed.

Asano makes a collection of old school paper lanterns designed by Shigeru Uchida in 1990. Delicately handcrafted from traditional washi paper in Japan’s Gifu prefecture in a 90-year-old factory, this lamp has a timeless quality to it. However, the organic gourd shape gives it a slight modern edge while the soft glow it provides will warm up any space. Flat packed and gift boxed, the experience of taking an Asano light out of its box and stretching it open is a ritual in its own right. What we really appreciate about them is the scale. They’re small enough to tuck into a bookcase, but substantial enough to stand alone on a desk or nightstand.

Komorebi (木漏れ日) is a term for sunlight that’s filtered through trees. It’s a special kind of beauty that only emerges from the shadows. Dappled, golden light, that flickers and shimmers between swaying branches and rustling green leaves. It’s those warm sunbeams that make you stop and appreciate the raw beauty of nature. And it’s a reminder that without a little darkness, it’s hard to appreciate the light.