Issue #28

Words by Cory Ohlendorf | Photography courtesy of Levi’s

It’s long been known that some of the best denim in the world comes from Japan. And that now includes Levi’s new Blue Tab collection. Launching as part of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 line, it’s been out here in Japan for a few months, but on April 30th, it will finally be available in the U.S. The line represents the brand’s most elevated expression of denim yet. Crafted entirely in Japan and steeped in the country’s heritage, Blue Tab reimagines iconic Levi’s silhouettes through the lens of refined Japanese craftsmanship and modern menswear sensibility. For regular readers of Bandana, this is a collection that hits all the right notes: selvedge pedigree, thoughtful construction, and relaxed silhouettes with a nod to Tokyo style.

The debut collection offers up smart, selvedge-denim spins on flagship Levi’s cuts like the 501 and 502, but also introduces two new fits to satisfy current tastes for baggier, wider jeans: the Marker Loose and the Anchor Relaxed. There’s also a Blue Tab Type I Jacket that I picked up for myself—cropped with engineered sleeves that track the shape of the wearer’s arm—it references the original while introducing a cool, tailored edge. Then there’s the fishtail parka, crafted in denim shirting fabric, with elegant hardware and construction details. It’s got an American vibe—it’s all distinctly Levi’s—and yet remains uniquely very Japanese. And everything, from the fit and finishes, feels very 2025.

At the heart of Blue Tab remains a deep respect for Japan’s revered denim-making tradition. The collection is crafted using premium selvedge denim from Kaihara Denim, a Hiroshima-based mill with roots dating back to 1893. Kaihara pioneered rope-dyeing techniques in Japan and continues to operate vintage shuttle looms, producing fabrics celebrated for their texture and longevity. But the finishing is where things get a little more modern: Finishing and construction are handled by SAAB, a Kanagawa-based atelier about an hour outside of Tokyo that specializes in subtle washes and artisanal detailing. There, the denim is washed and hand-distressed using modern lasers and old school tools like a specially carved wooden block and a small sander. It’s a balance of both precision with imperfect character—with each item crafted to look and feel like an elevated essential.

Each piece carries a new Blue Tab label, inspired by a 1925 Levi Strauss & Co. stock certificate found in the brand’s archives. The typography is a subtle nod to Levi’s legacy—but with a distinctly elevated feel. Even the iconic two-horse patch gets an update in deep indigo, signaling this isn’t your average Levi’s line. It’s branding that speaks to those who notice details—the kind of people who read fabric composition tags, know their shuttle looms and appreciate the benefits of genuine indigo-dyed fabrics.

The Indigo Moonstar x Buck Mason canvas deck shoe is a refined reinterpretation of the classic 1940s U.S. Navy deck shoe. Handcrafted in Kurume, Japan, by Moonstar—a brand renowned for its old school vulcanized rubber and canvas footwear since 1873—this collaboration infuses timeless design with modern craftsmanship. The shoe features a durable indigo-dyed herringbone canvas upper paired with a natural rubber sole. Its vulcanized and siped sole ensures exceptional grip, flexibility and comfort. Which is good, because these are the kind of sneakers you’ll wear all spring and summer long.

Shiri ni hi ga tsuku (尻に火がつく) is a Japanese idiom that literally translates to “one’s butt catches fire.” It is used in a scenario where the situation is imminent and the speaker is pressed by urgent matters. In other words, to have a fire under your ass forces you to take action because of urgency or pressure from others. When you’re in a situation where you can’t ignore a problem anymore and must act quickly, you’ll likely be running around like your pants are on fire—hence the expression.