Issue #23

Words by Cory Ohlendorf | Illustration by Ikanimoken

Everyone with an Instagram or TikTok account seems to have their must-do items when they go to Japan. For some, it’s arcades and anime, for others it’s underrated ramen spots and well-designed coffee shops. Of course, there are all the stores and museums and photogenic sightseeing spots that are surely on everyone’s list, but there is one experience that I believe doesn’t get the attention it deserves. 

Part of me wants to keep it to myself (and those in the know), but that’s not what my job is about. And I’m never one to gatekeep. So let’s strip down and talk about public bathing in Japan. The first time I did it, I’ll admit that it was a little unnerving. I wasn’t used to being naked around dozens of other strangers and the fact that I was the only foreigner made me feel like I had more eyes on me than usual. But all the anxiety and self conscious thinking evaporated as I lowered myself into the steaming mineral-rich waters of the oversized bath.

But let’s back up a bit and go back to the beginning—the culture of the sento (public bathhouse) developed in the Edo era, where they were initially meant as places to wash up at the end of a long day. This was because individual homes didn’t have their own bathrooms. Nowadays, they’re still found in mostly residential urban areas, and serve as places to wash and soak despite 98% of residences in Japan being fitted with bathrooms now. They have taken on the new role as a way to not only get clean, but to slow down and rejuvenate the mind and body. You get to luxuriate in the old school vibe, unique architecture and absorb the benefits of the waters.

I should also point out that there’s a difference between a sento and an onsen. The main difference is the water that flows into the baths themselves. A sento can merely have hot tap water in their tubs—clean and relaxing. But an onsen, to be officially recognized in Japan, must be fed from a natural hot spring deep underground. The thermal waters must meet certain criteria relating to the mineral content of the water. There are onsen towns all over Japan, dotted with ryokans (or traditional inns) where you can eat traditional food, stay in rooms with tatami mats and enjoy the natural springs (some of which are outdoors). 

But you don’t have to travel to a remote resort town to take advantage of the healing properties of a good bath. While local neighborhood sento are becoming something of a dying breed—some reports estimate around 100 sento closed within six years—there are still plenty of onsen and sento found within Japan’s biggest cities. And it’s not just granddads seeking the comforts of the hot water. By some respects, onsen culture has never been hotter (pun slightly intended). 

Some old school sentos have been revived and renovated as younger clientele take an interest in the art of bathing. Bath goods and onsen merch have been flourishing in stores and collaborations, like a recent collection being sold by Popeye, which featured a custom-designed onsen towel. Kai Tanaka, founder of Osentou magazine, says his Instagram account is just one of many dedicated to Japan’s bathhouse culture. Perhaps that’s where the kids are getting into it. He says going to the baths with your friends is a trendy thing to do. According to Tanaka, they perceive it as something healthy and fresh, not nostalgic or fussy. He said that the young people around him want to experience “healing” and the term yasareru (to be comforted or healed) is a current trend. 

And then I realized, yes, it’s an easy way to put down your phone, and stay fully present in the moment. You’re naked, a little vulnerable and being soothed by the  water. There’s nothing to do but slow down, breathe and be quiet with your thoughts. It’s an analog approach to wellness. And it gives the sense of community and togetherness without having to make a lot of useless small talk.

When you’ve soaked enough and are ready to get out, the ritual continues, as most people dry off, get dressed and relax a bit in the lobby before heading out. You could be a little too hot or maybe you’re a little lightheaded. The thing to do is enjoy a cold beverage—traditionally a milk in various flavors—and by the time you’re done drinking, you’re ready to put on your shoes and go home.

Strip Down and Wash Up

Nudity is expressly required and that’s to ensure no sullied clothes enter the water. That’s why you’re asked to shower before entering the bath. Take this moment as an opportunity to thoroughly scrub yourself from head to toe.

Keep Hair and Towels Out of the Water

It’s pretty much forbidden to dunk your head under the water. And the same goes for your towel. The idea is to keep the bath water as clean as possible.

Tattoos Are Rarely Allowed

I have a small tattoo and it’s not usually a problem, but if you want to be safe, we’d recommend covering with a waterproof bandage. Even though it’s a bit out-of-date, many in Japan still associate tattoos with organized crime.

Japan’s G-SHOCK makes yet another innovative leap into the future of watchmaking by launching its new “Tough Silicone Band”. The proprietary material, which took ten years to hone, combines silicone and urethane properties and features a shimmery, high-gloss finish that looks like liquid metal. It looks sturdy and metallic, with a sleek and minimalist aesthetic, and yet it’s easily pliable and ready for any adventure.

Nanakorobi Yaoki (七転び八起き) is a Japanese proverb that translates to mean “fall down seven times, stand up eight”. It’s said to remind loved ones that failing at something is not necessarily a bad thing. It forces us to grow and try things that are out of our comfort zones that we wouldn't have thought of otherwise. Japan’s famed daruma dolls are said to be linked to the saying nanakorobi yaoki, since their rounded shape is symbolic of having a fighting spirit to overcome adversity.