Issue #22

The Rising Japanese Brands You Need on Your Radar

February 6th edition
February 6th edition
The Rising Japanese Brands You Need on Your Radar

Words by Cory Ohlendorf | Photography courtesy

Just a decade ago, some might’ve said that Japanese fashion was one of the best-kept secrets in menswear. Clearly, that's no longer the case. Japan has emerged as a superior spot for shopping and street style inspiration, and now their homegrown designer labels have become a sensation within the menswear world.

Sure, brands like Yohji Yamamoto, UNDERCOVER, Issey Miyake and Comme des Garçons have been well-respected fashion heavyweights for a long time. And UNIQLO has long made its mark around the world. But it’s only in the past few years that the Western style set has come to appreciate the growing list of Japanese clothing brands that have been pushing the envelope of style and creating amazing, high-quality products just out of sight of the masses.

And like so many Japanese makers, what sets these labels apart is their dedication to craft and sweating the details. They’re offering a mix of tradition and innovation, while combining styles and design languages for a perfect mix of aesthetics and comfort. In short, they’re the kind of clothes you want to wear, that you feel good in and that you don’t see everywhere. With that in mind, here are the four brands that are making a splash and that you could can now easily buy without booking a trip to Tokyo.

Auralee

I’m guessing that you’re already a little familiar with Auralee. Among the style set, Auralee’s name has come to evoke a mix of enthusiasm and hushed reverence. It’s your favorite fashion guy’s favorite brand at the moment. And that’s something the label’s designer, Ryota Iwai, wasn’t planning for. “I didn’t want the brand’s name to be too dramatic or meaningful. I definitely would’ve been uncomfortable naming the brand after myself,” he says. “I wanted something concise—and memorable.”

Merino pullover ($895)
and pleated pant ($710)

Established in 2015, the brand has developed a following for its ability to walk the line between soft and strong, modern and timeless, relaxed and refined. The world that Iwai has built is much more about living life tastefully and true—a wardrobe that, even when worn roughly, can be worn elegantly. The clothes themselves are the kind of pieces you want to wear over and over again—incredibly crafted and sourced from a breath of premium, global materials yet produced entirely in Japan.

And Wander

And Wander is a brand that’s been at it for a while—they launched in 2011—but the burgeoning brand has experienced a quick rise to popularity over the past few years because of the performance/techwear wave. Founded by Keita Ikeuchi and Mihoko Mori, former Issey Miyake alumni, the label has remained loyal to its “create innovative fashion for the great outdoors” philosophy. But since everything is a hybrid of sporty and sophisticated, these are pieces you can wear both up a mountain and downtown. Think hiking performance gear such as technical jackets and fleeces, complemented by a range of sweats, trail pants and ruggedly cool bags. Instead of creating new season collections from scratch time and again, the label works on developing its menswear with better performance, fabrications, and functionality in mind, continuously offering up the very best for city-dwellers and adventurers alike.

Shetland pocket sweater ($385 / $250) and pleated twill pant ($335 / $184.25)

Cale

Nestled between ritzy Roppongi and Tokyo Tower, Cale’s understated shop in the Higashiazabu neighborhood is stocked with the kind of cool, quiet clothes that would be worn by a gallery owner. Which make sense, since designer Yuki Sato is also a respected and successful art gallerist. The shop/gallery often hold exhibitions of new, up and coming artists and the works pair perfectly with the label’s clothing. What really sets them apart is the fabric choices. T-shirts have a smooth yet surprisingly strong feel to them, while a Type 2 trucker jacket is remarkably soft, since it’s made from washed hemp. Sato develops a lot of the fabrics himself from scratch, working with Japanese textile mills. His easily wearable pieces have a strong emphasis on comfort and durability, which is evident in both the silhouettes and premium feel of the materials. Cale already has a cult-like following in Japan, but it’s growing in the West now that it’s being sold in such shops as Mohawk General Store and C’H’C’M’.

S.S.Stein

S.S.Stein (often simply referred to as “Stein”) was founded in 2016 by designer Kiichiro Asakawa and has built a reputation for detailed, layered clothing with a focus on impeccable tailoring and technical construction. The clothes are sharp and structured yet slouchy. Relaxed and casual yet inherently polished. Vogue recently called Asakawa “Japan’s high wizard of quiet luxury,” who over the past few years has “transformed his brand into a subtle force to be reckoned with.” It’s quiet luxury with a cool, conceptual edge and an invitation to experiment with your look.

Two-Way Body Lotion

The Japanese are always innovating when it comes to their grooming products. Take, for example, this body lotion that can be used on wet or dry skin. That’s right, you can apply this hydrating cream right on your dripping body as soon as you turn off the shower. Rub it in and then dry off with a towel as you normally would. There’s no stickiness, just smooth skin. The brand says that the steam effect of the hot water makes it easy for the ingredients to penetrate the skin and provide a high moisturizing effect.

Formulated with skin soothing Vitamin C, E and niacinamide, it also utilizes such natural moisturizing agents as jojoba and macadamia seed oil, shea butter and bergamot fruit oil—giving it its subtle citrusy fragrance. I’ve tested this personally and found that it works great both in and out of the shower, but I really like how much it absorbs on wet skin and how long-lasting the hydration stays on the skin.

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$28 by Barth

Some words in Japanese don't exactly translate. Have you heard of ...
Kaizen

(ILLUSTRATION: Duncan1890)

Kaizen (改善) is a compound of two Japanese words that together translate as “good change” or “improvement”. However, the term has come to signify the Japanese philosophy of “continuous improvement”—the idea that every day is an opportunity to improve, even if it's only by 1%. It's not about being invincible, but rather unstoppable in your quest to be better than yesterday.

What can I do at the new Ginza Sony Park?
Explore the Architecture

Explore the
Architecture

Occupying the site of the original Sony Building from the 1960s, the multi-story urban ‘park’ was built to present the Sony brand’s philosophy in physical form. The facility is composed of three subterranean floors and five above-ground floors (wrapped in a grid-like frame that envelops the building’s facade), and will host a rotation of music and art events.

Ginza Sony Park
5 Chome-3-1 Ginza
Chuo City, Tokyo 104-0061

Have a
Meal

"1/2 (Nibun no Ichi)" is a casual dining restaurant located within the new Ginza Sony Park. The yōshoku (uniquely Japanized Western cuisine) style menu changes with the seasons, always offering around ten different options.

1/2 (Nibun no Ichi)

Admire Some Art

Sony Park Exhibit 2025 Part One’, features an interactive exhibit featuring work of six artists from now until March 30. The creatives highlighted as part of the inaugural exhibition include J-pop superstars Yoasobi, fellow musician Vaundy and alt-rockers Hitsujibungaku.

That’s all
for this week.

We’ll see you back here next Thursday.

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